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Mengjie Hui

The Royal Danish Academy
/ 2022—25

This design draws inspiration from the way airflow shapes fabric as a woman runs or rides a bicycle, capturing motion. It also reflects a cultural tradition of using pleats in women’s clothing to enhance mobility and comfort, like the ma mian skirt, a distinctive garment from the student’s heritage. Pleats are used throughout the piece not only as a functional element but as a sculptural tool to create space and form around the body.

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The final garment is a sheer dress with pleated detailing across the sleeves and skirt, opening at the back and cascading into an elegant train. To shape the silhouette, pleats were sewn together on one side, transforming straight lines into soft curves. These pleated sections were then anchored at the waistline, allowing the sleeves to billow with added volume. Army green was chosen for its strong association with the outdoors, grounding the garment in a palette of resilience and earthiness. The result is a garment that balances tradition and innovation, structure and spontaneity.

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