Basque female headpieces
Exhibition highlight. "Coal and Velvet. Takes on popular costumes from Ortiz Echagüe and Balenciaga"
In 1954, to mark Basque Week, an exhibition of 15th, 16th and 17th-century female dress was installed in the San Telmo Museum. The exhibition was led by director Mr Gonzalo Manso de Zúñiga, who had been entrusted to take this forward by the Attraction and Tourism Centre.
The exhibition was accompanied by a publication in which Manso de Zúñiga expressed high esteem in his research work for the engravings that the German Christoph Weiditz made around 1530 during his travels in Spain, and for the pictorial work of Francisco de Mendieta. The headpiece represented in Weiditz's engraving 119, with the inscription "The people of Biscay spin like so at home and in the street", can be closely identified with the headpieces no. 20 and no. 24 which feature in the 1607 painting Boda de Hidalgos en Begoña, worn by various women from Bolibar, Oñate and Mondragón.
Copies of these engravings and a visit to the Provincial Government of Gipuzkoa, which owns the aforementioned painting, must have served as reference material in 1952 for María Ozcariz, head of millinery, and decorator Antonio Díaz de Antoñana, to help create the 12 reproductions of the female headpieces and their busts in the EISA atelier.
White cotton 17th-century Basque female headpieces with basket structure, on polychrome clay busts overlain with woollen garments. Reproduced in 1952 in the EISA atelier at Avenida de la Libertad 2, San Sebastian. E-003518 E-003517 SAN TELMO MUSEOA. DONOSTIA KULTURA